To  some, it is the thriving capital of the New South and the home of such  blue-chip businesses as Coca-Cola and UPS. To others, it is the cradle  of the civil rights movement, where the legacy of Martin Luther King,  Jr., lives on in the city's burgeoning black middle class. To the less  charitable, it is a case study in urban sprawl as its perimeter edges  ever farther into the surrounding Georgia countryside. Atlanta lacks the  grandeur of New York or Chicago, the glamour of Los Angeles or Miami,  and the beauty of San Francisco or Seattle. While it is unlikely to ever  become the truly great international city of its civic boosters'  aspirations, it would be equally wrong to dismiss Atlanta as a  characterless expanse. The city's yearning for recognition and respect  backfired in 1996, when it hosted an uninspiring Olympics that served  only to highlight its deficiencies. But for the business traveller  expecting little but a big airport and a slew of corporate headquarters,  Atlanta can be a surprisingly rewarding place to work and play.
Where to SleepDowntown  Atlanta, like the centers of many American cities, can be desolate  after commuters have left for the suburbs each evening. The local  government has tried to regenerate the area by cracking down on crime  and panhandling and encouraging the development of new leisure  attractions, but the results have been mixed so far. For business  travelers attending conventions in Atlanta, a downtown hotel will  usually be most convenient. Choices include the 
Marriott Marquis, the 
Hyatt Regency, the 
Westin, and the 
Omni.
If  your destination is Coca-Cola's global headquarters on North Avenue,  you can choose between a cluster of hotels in nearby Midtown, including  the 
Four Seasons, the 
Sheraton, and the 
Wyndham. Another Midtown option is 
Twelve, a swank hotel in a lively new commercial and residential development called Atlantic Station. Farther north, the 
W Atlanta at Perimeter Center is convenient for visitors to UPS's headquarters in Sandy Springs.
Where to EatFor those staying downtown, the revolving 
Sun Dial restaurant,  on the seventy-second floor of the Westin, offers great views. Most of  the best places to eat, however, are outside the city center. Buckhead,  an upscale commercial and residential district about six miles north of  downtown, is a reliable option for business meals, with the 
Blue Ridge Grill and 
Chops among the favorites of local executives. If you're looking for something less formal, try 
Café Dupri,  a small Buckhead bar and restaurant owned by Jermaine Dupri, the rap  star and producer. Virginia Highland, a leafy neighborhood near Midtown,  caters to a younger crowd of twentysomething professionals with its  eclectic mix of cuisines, including Southwestern at 
Noche and Italian at 
Sotto Sotto. Atlantic Station is the hottest and hippest new spot in Atlanta dining, with 
Rosa Mexicano and 
Dolce—franchises imported from New York and Los Angeles, respectively—offering the highest quality.
Where to See and Be SeenIt  used to be Atlanta's version of Bourbon Street, but many of the bars  and nightclubs that once lined Buckhead's Peachtree Road have been  shuttered in recent years after a clampdown on late-night drinking and  crime. Buckhead still offers numerous lively bars clustered around its  upscale hotels and shopping malls, but it is not the party zone it once  was. Some of the fun has shifted to Atlantic Station, where 
Twelve and 
Dolce have  become hangouts for the young, hip, and wealthy. Midtown and Virginia  Highland offer a more bohemian choice of bars and restaurants, including  a thriving gay scene.
Where to Close a Deal For 124 years, the great and good of Atlanta's business community have been wheeling and dealing in the 
Capital City Club,  the oldest private club in the South. Members have included Asa  Candler, founder of Coca-Cola, and John Portman, the renowned real  estate developer said to have inspired 
A Man in Full, Tom Wolfe's biting satire. Non-members need an invitation to gain access. For a more understated setting, try the 
White House, a traditional Buckhead diner, where the city's business and political elite enjoy breakfast and the morning papers.
Local Codes For  all its attempts to promote itself as diverse and internationally  minded, Atlanta remains rooted in the South. Its business culture is  clubby and conservative, with a jacket and tie typically worn by men  even in the height of summer. Atlanta prides itself on being "the city  too busy to hate," having largely avoided the civil rights-era riots  encountered elsewhere in the region. The overwhelmingly white business  community and black-dominated political leadership have long worked  together to ease racial tensions and promote economic growth. As a  result, Atlanta has one of the biggest and wealthiest black middle  classes in the United States. Race, however, remains a thorny issue.  While most workplaces are racially diverse, the rest of Atlanta society  is much less well integrated. The city is starkly divided between the  largely white north and mostly black south.
Airport Intelligence Many,  perhaps most, business travelers pass through Hartsfield-Jackson  Atlanta International without setting foot in the city. The airport is  America's busiest hub, with 2,700 takeoffs and landings a day—twice the  traffic of London Heathrow. Hartsfield deals surprisingly well with its  86 million annual passengers, and a new fifth runway (opened last year)  has further increased capacity. But the two terminals—adjacent to each  other in a single building—are severely strained at peak times. A new  international terminal is under construction but will not open until  2010 at the earliest. The airport is a 20-minute ride from downtown on  MARTA, the city's light-rail system, but a rental car is necessary for  most destinations beyond the main business district.
The Three-Hour TourPay  homage to Dr. King by visiting his childhood home and final resting  place and by peeking inside Ebenezer Baptist Church, where the civil  rights leader preached. All three sights can be reached on foot from  the 
Martin Luther King, Jr., National Historic Site visitors  center, in the Sweet Auburn district, minutes from downtown. MLK's  archives—bought by the city government from the King family last year  for $32 million—are on display at the 
Atlanta History Center,  in Buckhead, including an early draft of his "I Have a Dream" speech.  The papers will form the centerpiece of a planned civil rights museum.
Unlikely as it seems, landlocked Atlanta is home to one of the world's biggest and best aquariums: the 
Georgia Aquarium,  opened in 2005 with a $250 million gift from Bernie Marcus, co-founder  of Atlanta-based Home Depot. Buy a ticket in advance, and, if visiting  on a weekend, be prepared for long lines for headliners such as the  giant whale sharks (the biggest fish on the planet). Across from the  aquarium on the south end of Centennial Olympic Park, a pleasant  city-center green that represents one of the few visible legacies of the  1996 Games, is 
CNN Center, where visitors can take a tour of the cable news station's global headquarters.